February 2009

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(This recipe came from “Bake Wise” by Shirley O. Corriher. This is a really long and picture-heavy post, so I’ve broken it up. There is a “more” jump at the bottom of the post.)

Since I made the decision to make croissants about two weeks ago, I’ve been terrified of today. The directions for this recipe take up two and a half pages in the cook book, and it was going to be an all-day affair. But I wanted to stick with my guns and make baked goods that proved to be a bit of a challenge. Croissants were definitely a challenge.

The croissants started last night when I mixed up the dough. It was then refrigerated overnight, while I tried not to think about it.

This morning, I got up at 9 a.m. (which is insanely early for me on a day off from work), and got to work. The first step was clearing off my counter and putting my mom’s “noodle board” on it:
Noodle board

The noodle board is basically a chunk of Formica-covered wooden counter top that used to be in someone’s kitchen, cut down to a manageable size and with the ends rounded off. My mother and grandmother use their noodle boards mostly for making…wait for it…homemade noodles. Although it comes in handy for rolling out pie dough as well.

In doing research for these croissants, I learned that I technically should have a pastry marble for this job. Marble keeps colder than most other materials, and it keeps the immense amount of butter in these croissants from melting on contact. But pastry marbles cost at least $160, so I passed on that and went for the noodle board instead. I think it did a fine job.

The next step was cutting three sticks of butter into long thin strips, which were then rolled in butter:
Butter sticks

This sticks were then mangled and mushed and rolled and beaten into a roughly six inch by six inch butter block:
Butter block

The dough was then retrieved from the refrigerator and the noodle board was oiled to keep the dough from sticking. I rolled the dough out to a roughly 12 inch by 12 inch square:
Dough ready for butter block

The butter block was then placed on the dough, which was pulled up and over, encasing the butter:
Butter block encased in dough

The dough was then rolled out to a 10 inch by 18 inch rectangle. The bottom third was folded up and the top third was folded down, like a business letter:
Turn Two

Then I wrapped the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerated it for one hour. This process was repeated SIX TIMES (yup, that’s six hours of refrigeration each time). After the final roll and refrigeration, it was time to prep the dough for the cuts.

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Bakery Review: Village Bakery (Athens, Ohio)

Village Bakery & Cafe
Village Bakery
268 E. State Street
Athens, Ohio 45701
(740) 594-7311

Last week I drove down to Athens to visit my best friend Melissa. She suggested we hit up Village Bakery for a snack and so I could give it a review.

Village Bakery boasts local, seasonal and organic ingredients in all their foods, including locally grown organic vegetables, grass-fed meats, free-range eggs, farmstead cheeses, Fair Trade organic coffee and organic dairy, flour and sugar.

The shop itself is a cozy atmosphere with a counter and bake case, an adjoining dining area, and an attached shop that sells all manner of organic and local goods from cheeses and spices to handmade bags. The bake case was filled with all sorts of interesting goodies, from cookies to brownies to enticing blueberry muffins.

I selected a Cinnamon Dark Chocolate Twist as well as a cup of coffee:
Cinnamon Dark Chocolate Twist and coffee

The twist was perfectly baked, although I found the cinnamon distribution to be slightly uneven. There were bites in which I could barely taste the cinnamon, and, towards the center of the twist, bites that left my tongue completely coated in the spice. The chocolate was much more evened out and provided a subtle cocoa taste that worked nicely with the cinnamon. The fair trade coffee was lovely.

The price was perfect. $1.95 for the twist and $1.95 for the coffee, which came with unlimited refills if eating in. Definitely worth a snacking stopover if you’re in the area.

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(This week’s project came from the February 2009 issue of Food & Wine magazine.)

This week I wanted to return to non-vegan baking, and you’ve gotta love a recipe that calls for two and a half sticks of butter. I was very intrigued by the malted cream in the middle of these sandwich cookies, and the recipe didn’t seem too difficult to master. Plus I got to buy a couple of new toys:
Biscuit cutters

The first toys were biscuit cutters. I was supposed to get a 2″ cookie cutter, but when I stopped by Sur La Table the other day, I couldn’t find one. They had a 1.5″ and a 2.5″, but no 2″. Then I noticed these biscuit cutters, which contained a 2″, a 2.5″ and a 3″, and they were only $3. I figure I’m likely to make biscuits somewhere along the line, and everyone can use these circular cutters.

Decorating set

The other toy was a cupcake decorating set. The recipe called for using a pastry bag and tip to put the malted cream on the bottom cookie. I had a pastry bag once, but I managed to apply so much pressure to it that I popped the seam and all the frosting inside exploded out. This set was less than $10 and comes with eight bags.

The first step in this recipe was melting six ounces of milk chocolate:
Hershey's!

Next, I mixed butter with brown sugar, granulated sugar, added the vanilla and melted chocolate, and then dumped in flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. The resulting dough was turned out onto parchment paper:
Ball of dough

The dough was rolled out to 1/4″ thickness and refrigerated for 15 minutes. I then used my 2″ biscuit cutter to cut out rounds. The scraps were gathered up again and more rounds were cut until all the dough was used. The dough was somewhat hard to work with, as it was incredibly crumbly. But I managed to get all the rounds onto my baking sheet (along with My Precious, the Silpat), and they were refrigerated again for ten minutes before being baked for ten:
Wafers

I ruined about four of the cookies in the first batch in my over-eagerness to get them off the baking sheet. These cookies definitely need some resting time before they are transferred to a cooling rack. And even then, they need to be handled with care until they are completely cooled. They are very fragile.
The filling was made of butter, Ovaltine, vanilla and powdered sugar. I found the filling to be quite stiff. I was worried that I had messed it up by adding about a tablespoon too much powdered sugar (I had that much left in the bag and didn’t want to waste it by throwing it out). However, the readers of Food & Wine magazine commented on this recipe’s web page that they also found the filling too stiff, and added milk to make it easier to work with. I thought about adding milk, but decided to just stick with what the recipe said.
I transferred the filling to a pastry bag and attempted to pipe the filling onto the cookies. This was definitely a chore. I also managed to apply so much pressure that I popped the pastry tip right out of the end of the bag. It ended up working better without the tip:
Malted cream

Finally, the cookies were sandwiched together:
Cookies
Cookie close-up

They turned out pretty good in the end. They’re very crumbly and very rich cookies (I could only eat one and a half, Rob had a few more), and I think they’ll be perfect to take in to my co-workers tomorrow.
I won’t be posting a new project until next Wednesday (February 25). I got a little off track by baking on Saturdays, but this time around I will need the extra time. I’m planning to bake croissants, and the instructions in the book I’m using take up three pages. I also have to retrieve my mother’s ‘noodle board’ to actually make the puff pastry. More on this next time.

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I’ve decided to hit up various bakeries in and around Columbus this year and post about them in between my weekly projects. The first two I’ve visited were Piece of Cake in the Short North and Bakery Gingham in German Village.

Piece of Cake
Piece of Cake
772 North High Street
Columbus Ohio, 43215
(614)421-0399
Hours: Monday through Saturday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Closed Sundays

Piece of Cake is a lovely little bakery hidden on a side street in the Short North. In their bakery cases you will find cookies, brownies, creme brulee, as well as a nice assortment of different slices of cake and cheesecake. I was nervous heading in, as some of the Yelp.com reviews had been less than stellar regarding the customer service. The cakes in the case were not labeled, so I sheepishly asked the employee if he could tell me what they were and he did with absolutely no hesitation. He was very helpful. I chose a slice of Red Velvet Cake (how could I not after having baked it as my first project?!) and a cup of coffee:
Red Velvet Cake and Coffee
The cake was very yummy. My only complaint (which isn’t even really a complaint) is that the frosting was a touch too sweet for me. I worked the frosting off the last few bites of cake. I think their cake was definitely better than mine, but I liked my frosting better. The coffee was also excellent. And I got all this cake and coffee for an even $5! I will definitely be coming back to sample some other goodies. They even have ‘real food’ if you want to eat some lunch with your dessert.

Bakery Gingham
Bakery Gingham
189 Thurman Ave
Columbus, Ohio 43206
(614) 449-CAKE
Hours: Monday through Sunday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

I was very excited to check out Bakery Gingham. It used to occupy a small space next door to the Brown Bag in German Village and just a week and a half ago the bakery moved into a new location between the Thurman Cafe and the German Village Coffee House, a highly desirable location, especially on the weekends.
Rob and I stopped in on a Saturday in the early afternoon, and the bakery was packed. It’s a very cute store, painted in bright blues and pinks with cupcake paintings on the walls. The customers in line in front of us bought multiple cupcakes, and all the cupcakes on display were quickly snatched up. The employees brought out some more from the back, and from those I selected a ‘birthday cake’ flavor – yellow cake with chocolate buttercream frosting – and Rob chose a chocolate cake with chocolate buttercream frosting. We eagerly bit into them:
Birthday cake cupcake
Chocolate cupcake with chocolate buttercream

They were…okay. Average. We both found our cupcakes slightly too dry, and I thought the frosting was both a little too ‘crunchy’ and sickly sweet. They weren’t terrible, but I feel like I’ve become a bit of a bakery snob and these just weren’t outstanding. For $2.50 a cupcake, I want perfection.
I did, however, find their inclusion of 50-cent peanut butter ‘pupcakes’ to be quite charming, and we bought one for our dog Scout, who loved it.
Bakery Gingham will probably be an amazing neighborhood cupcake shop for German Village, but I wouldn’t recommend making a drive. There are many other shops that are much more exciting.

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(Both of these recipes came from “Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World” by Isa Chandra Moskowitz.)

Things were going so well. I was getting a little cocky. I guess the time had to come.

This week, I experienced my first baking failure.

To preface this project, let me explain the dual purpose I hinted at before. I suggested that the bookstore where I work should have a cupcake decorating day, as a store in another city did this around Christmas. My store decided to do it as a Valentine’s project, so I and one of my managers each baked some cupcakes and then we went out and bought fun pink and red decorations.

I decided to bake vegan cupcakes, not only to fulfill my week’s project, but also to provide such cupcakes to any vegans who might show up (and to expose children to the idea). So I thought I would bake vanilla and chocolate for a little variety:
Makin' cupcakes

The chocolate ones turned out fantastic:
Vegan chocolate cupcakes

The vanilla ones, however, were a different story. The recipe gave me the option of using either margarine or canola oil. I had the canola oil on hand, so I went with it. The recipe instructed me to use 1/4 teaspoon of salt, but to increase it to 1/2 teaspoon if I was using the oil. The chocolate ones did not include these instructions.

Biting into those vanilla cupcakes was like biting into a salt lick…WHOA! I don’t know what happened, but 1/2 teaspoon was just way too much salt for 12 little cupcakes:
Vegan vanilla cupcakes
Salty

There was only one place for these salty dogs to go:
Awww

Anyway, the chocolate ones went over great. The kids (and adults) at work had a great time dumping conversation hearts and cinnamon bears all over their cupcakes. (Unfortunately, I couldn’t take any photos at work.)

So if anyone else has run into this problem, let me know. Or has everyone else just used margarine?

Tune in next week when I’ll be making Milk-Chocolate Cookies with Malted Cream!

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